This basic Adirondack chair plan is one of the easiest and you will be able to complete this easily even in a day or in a single weekend. And if you wish to apply a coat of paint instead of wood stain, make sure to use a weatherproof coat especially if you plan to leave your chairs outdoors.
This part is time-consuming and messy considering how many pieces there really are for making Adirondack chairs. I ended up covered in sawdust, or as my 5-year-old calls is “wood fuzz”. .
What’s less recognized is that the chair that invites us to lounge lazily for hours originated amid a turn-of-the century health crisis, during which reclining in the fresh outdoor air seemed the only available cure.
A perfect example is the extended Adirondack chair I mentioned when I was discussing the types. The footrest is added to increase your comfort.
The seat sits considerably high also. The front edge sits just over 16-inches tall while at the lowest point, the seat is tad bit taller than 10-inches. Which for an adirondack chair, is quite impressive. Well for the taller people anyways.
Since it’s made out of such a tough durable plastic you don’t have to worry about it getting damaged from the elements outside. A big part of this is thanks to it being waterproof this is a nice advantage to this Adirondack chair that some others don’t.
Next to Cedar, Cypress is another softwood deemed fit for the task of building Adirondack chairs. Surprisingly, it is often categorized with hardwoods.
Its long, slanted back, wide armrest, and sunken seat allow you to slide into a laid-back position. You can let your body loose because it supports all the right places for maximum relaxation.
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Make sure you invest in high quality materials, such as pressure-treated lumber, cedar, pine or redwood. Take accurate measurements and use a professional saw to get the job done. Always align the components at both ends before drilling the pilot holes and inserting the galvanized screws, in order to prevent the wood from splitting. Use waterproof glue to reinforce the joints. A – 2 pieces of 1×3 lumber – 34 1/2″ long, 2 pieces – 34 3/4″ long LEGS B – 2 pieces of 1×3 lumber – 24 1/2″ long, 1 piece – 19″ long, 1 piece – 17 1/2″ long SUPPORTS C – 2 pieces of 1×4 lumber – 22 1/4″ long SEAT D – 12 piece of 1×2 lumber – 19″ long SEAT E – 7 pieces of 1×3 lumber – 18″ long BACKREST F – 1 piece of 2×2 lumber – 16″ long, 1 piece of 1×2 lumber – 17″ long SUPPORTS G – 2 pieces of 1×3 lumber – 20 1/4″ long, 1 piece of 1×2 lumber – 1 1/2″ long ARMRESTS H – 1 piece of 1×4 lumber – 20 1/2″ long STEP 5 pieces of 1×3 lumber – 8′ 3 pieces of 1×2 lumber – 8′ 1 piece of 1×4 lumber – 8′ 1 piece of 2×2 lumber – 4′ 2 1/2″ screws, 1 1/4″ screws wood glue, stain/paint wood filler Garden bench plans Double chair bench with table plans Modern adirondack chair plans Make sure you follow me on Facebook to be the first that gets my latest plans and for some other exclusive content. Also, follow me on Pinterest to get many ideas for your backyard from all the internet! See how you can Support Me with no extra costs to you.
You want all of your pieces to match as closely to the template as possible. And you may have cut a few pieces a little rough, or not exactly on the template so you will want to sand the edges smooth. To do this you can use a spindle sander. I admit that I started out clamping matching pieces together to attempt to sand them together. But I eventually gave up on that and sanded each piece one at a time, stopping periodically to compare them to one another. This is the oscillating spindle sander that I have HERE.
There is no real easy answer to this question since everyone’s body is different and what works for you may not work for someone else. Tho it does seem that the general consensus is that they can be good for your back thanks to their clever design, which is more supportive compared to a patio chair.
Continue to add seat slats allowing 1⁄4” spacing between them and fasten each slat with one screw at each end. The final seat slat is the one with the curve, which nests into the curve of the back. Leave space between this slat and the back so water can easily run off.
Last but not least, you need to take care of the finishing touches. Fill the holes with wood putty and then smooth the surface with 120-220 grit sandpaper. Apply a few coats of paint or stain over the components, to protect the wood from the lumber and to enhance the look of the chair.
There’s a bit more flex in this chair which does make it very comfortable. This does come with a drawback for the heavier folks out there and if you’re over 250lbs then I would consider the chair that’s made for big and heavy people.
Do this entire process until you have ALL of your pieces of wood cut out to make your Adirondack chairs. Then you will have to sand each piece.
You want wood that is durable enough for the application, be it indoor or outdoor. The following factors will guide your wood selection.